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Treviso
Treviso is a bustling, prosperous small city and center in the northern Veneto. It seems to have changed little from its early days as a medieval market town and staunch ally to Venice. Much of the city had to be rebuilt after severe World War II damage, but it was done well. Treviso’s medieval palazzi and houses with painted facades, churches frescoed by Giotto’s follower Tomaso da Modena (1325–79), and pleasant streets cut across by pretty canals together make for a lovely, genuine-Italy break from the tourist beat of Padua–Vicenza–Verona.
Main monuments
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Piazza dei signori |
The center of town is Piazza dei Signori, lined with arcades that run under the retro-medieval Palazzo del Podestà, rebuilt in the 1870s with a tall battlemented clock tower, and spread into a loggia under the 13th-century brick council hall Palazzo dei Trecento.
Just beyond this square, on Piazza S. Vito, sits a pair of medieval churches:Santa Lucia, with Tomaso da Modena frescoes in the first alcove on the right, and San Vito, with its rather faded Byzantine-style frescoes from the 12th or 13th century. Both are open daily 9am to noon and 4 to 6pm. |
The canals |
When you are ready, find the maze of ancient alleyways and small streets whose medieval houses are reflected in the waterways. Make your way to Fishmarket Island - the Isola della Pescheria - and take a course that will take you over a number of bridges, some of them crossing the Canal dei Buranelli, the largest canal in Treviso.
Cross the Ponte San Francesco where you will find an old windmill, the Ponte Dante near the University, and the Ponte San Martino. |
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Cathedral |
The overbearing facade of the Duomo is from 1836, but it’s flanked by Romanesque lions that, coupled with the seven green copper domes, speak to the cathedral’s 12th-century origins in the Venetian-Byzantine style. The second pilaster features a late-1400s relief of the Visitation by Lorenzo Bregno. The chapel altarpiece at the end of the right aisle is an unusually bright and open Annunciation by Titian (the chapel’s founder Broccardo Malchiostro was painted in later, crouching behind the classical building to peep at the scene). The crypt contains a forest of columns and fragments of 14th-century fresco and mosaic.
It’s open Monday to Saturday 7:30am to noon and 3:30 to 7pm, Sunday 7:30am to 1pm and 3:30 to 8pm. |
S. Nicolo' |
Down in the southwest corner of town, the big brick 13th- to 14th-century Dominican church of San Nicolò houses some good Gothic frescoes. Tomaso da Modena decorated the huge round columns with a series of saints; Antonio da Treviso did the absolutely gargantuan St. Christopher—his .9m (3-ft.) long feet strolling over biting fish—in 1410. On the right side of the apse, the tomb of Agostino d’Onigo from 1500 has courtly Pages frescoed by Lorenzo Lotto, who also did the altarpiece of the Incredulity of St. Thomas with Apostles in the chapel right of the altar. The late-14th-century Sienese School frescoes lining the walls include an Adoration of the Magi, complete with camels. It’s open daily 8am to 12:30pm and 3:30 to 7pm. Next door to the (unused) front door of the church is the entrance to the adjoining seminary’s Sala del Capitolo, Piazzetta Benedetto XI 2, frescoed in 1352 by Tomaso da Modena with 40 Dominicans busily studying and copying out manuscripts at their desks.
It’s open 8am to 6pm daily; admission is free (ring the bell if the door is shut). |
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Museums
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Museo civico Luigi Bailo |
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On the ground floor is a remarkable collection of ancient bronze relics, including swords and ritualistic disks from the 5th century B.C., alongside Roman remains. Upstairs, the painting collection includes works, but no standouts, by Giovanni Bellini, Lorenzo Lotto, Titian, Jacopo Bassano, Cima da Conegliano, and both Giovanni Battista and Gian Domenico Tiepolo. At press time it had just closed for restorations and renovations, with no set date for reopening, but thankfully the best of the paintings are still being shown in Santa Caterina (below), where some of the museum’s other collections may be moving on a permanent basis in the future as Treviso rethinks its civic museum scene.
Borgo Cavour, 24 - phone: 0422/51337
Open hours: tue-sat 9-12,30 / 2.30-5 pm
sun 9am to noon |
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Casa da Noal |
The museum is housed in two adjoining largely restored houses, situated in the historical centre of Treviso, dating respectively to the XV and XVI century. It houses the civic collections of applied arts: in particular, one can see important furniture, ceramics, fabrics and wrought iron, the production of which dates from the XIV to the XIX century.
via Canova 38 - phone 0422 / 544895
Open hours: 9.00 - 12.30 / 2.30pm - 5.00pm (6.00pm sun) - mon closed |
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